Seed-to-Cup: The Coffee Production

When drinking coffee, more than just a beverage is being consumed.  Rather, a completion of a story is taking place.  When one drinks a cup of coffee they are the last of many hands that have touched the coffee throughout a very detailed and prestigious process.  Throughout the process, every coffee worker within the production chain must understand that there is nothing they can do to make the coffee better; the importance lies in maintaining a great quality in the production chain.  Here is a brief overview of the seed to cup production.

Growing

Coffee trees exist primarily in the most remote areas of the world.  This area is a narrow subtropical zone circling the world and extends between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn.  All coffee growing regions are in moderate climates with sufficient moisture and a proper altitude.  Coffee trees produce a cherry-like fruit, in which the actual “coffee bean” is the seed inside of the fruit.  The growing is greatly affected by the type of soil, the agricultural practices, nearby crops, climate, altitude, shade and so on.  Therefore, a great cup of coffee must first begin with proper growing conditions.

Harvesting

Coffee harvest can take up to three months.  The extended length of time is because the cherries ripen and are handpicked at different times.  As the cherry grows it begins as a flower blossom and transforms into a small green cherry before changing yellow, then red and finally a deep maroon before harvesting.  Since high-quality Arabicas are grown in areas that commercial equipment cannot function and only certain cherries ought to be picked on certain days, harvesting must take place by hand.  Once the ripe cherry is picked, it is immediately time for processing.  When cherries are not carefully picked, defected beans can find themselves mixed together lowering the flavor quality in the cup.

Processing

Processing must occur quickly after the cherry has been picked in order to extract the seed, which eventually takes place as the green coffee bean.  All of the layers covering the seed must be stripped while keeping the seed together.  There are three common processes to achieve this goal:  The natural process (often referred to as the dry), the wet process (commonly referred to as washed), and the semi washed (also known as honey processed).

The dry or natural process is known for soaking some of the natural flavors from the fruit presenting more body and sometimes sweetness adding an extra dimension to the coffee.  On the down side, typically it is more difficult to maintain good uniformity with the natural process, while the variables are difficult to control.  The natural process functions by placing the cherries in the sun to dry after being picked.  Once the cherries have naturally dried on their own, the cherry is put through a mechanical husking device, which breaks the skin, flesh and pergamin releasing the green bean.  Although this seems less labor intensive than the washed, it takes a great deal of attention to ensure the cherry is dried, to just the right point making sure the coffee does not spoil or retain too much moisture.

The wet process is a more complex method that usually guarantees a more uniform final product as each step of the process is slightly more controlled, unlike the natural. With the wet process, the cherries are processed within eighteen hours in order to maintain fresh flavors.  A quick breakdown of the process looks like this:

1. Beans are placed in a tank of water where they are separated.  The over-ripe beans will float to the top, while the good beans will sink to the bottom.
2. The ripe beans are de-pulped separating the bean from the pulp.
3. The beans are then placed in holding tanks for fermentation.  The bean is being fermented by the mucilage, which refers to the residue left after removing the pulp
4. Next the beans are thoroughly washed removing the mucilage, which will end the fermentation. During this washing, the beans are further sorted by density.
5. The beans are dried.  Most producers perform the task by spreading the beans out on a patio area in order to sun dry.
6. The beans then rest for 30 days before being put through another machine to further dry the beans and break down the parchment to complete the process.

Each one of these steps must be completed in a proper manner.  A mistake in anyone of these areas can cause a defect in the coffee flavor.

The semi-washed process is a hybrid of the natural and washed processes.  After the beans are picked they are put through a screen that removes the skin and some of the pulp leaving mucilage.  At this stage the beans are placed in the sun to dry.  The semi-washed process marriages both the pros and the cons of the natural and washed processes.

Importing

Just like any produce, coffee is at its best when in season.  Therefore, different coffee origins are only at their peak during certain times of the year.  This is the reason why some specialty coffee roasters will not offer certain coffee’s year around, because they only want to use them while they are at their freshest point.  From processing station to the roaster a lot can happen to a coffee.  Where the coffee is stored, what the coffee is stored next to, whether the beans are exposed to too much light or varied temperatures will all have an affect on the flavor of the coffee.  Often coffee is left at a cargo dock for far too long causing the beans to lose their fresh flavor.

Roasting

Once a coffee arrives to the roaster, there are hundreds of different ways that a coffee may be roasted.  The first task of the roaster is to do a handful of sample roasts, taste them, and then do more sample roasts.  The process of trial and error is continued until just the right roast is achieved to best highlight the particular coffee.  Each coffee will contain its own flavor and undertones dependant on the coffee-growing region, processing methods, soil, altitude and even the weather of that season, while the goal of each specific roasting profile is to bring out the best in those flavors.

The process of roasting is initiating a series of chemical reactions by heating the coffee beans.  During the roasting process carbohydrates, including sugars are being caramelized by the roaster.  Throughout the duration of a roast over 800 chemical reactions are discretely taking place while the roaster controls the speed by manipulating the heat and airflow applied to the drum.  If the roast goes too slow often the flavor will be lost, while if the roast is rushed the exterior of the bean is scorched, and the entire bean is underdeveloped.  During a roast, the bean will lose density and moisture, but double in size at the end of the process.  The longer the beans are roasted, the denser and larger they will be.

Once the coffee is roasted it ought to be stored properly in an airtight and dark package.  After the completion of a roast, the coffee is immediately releasing Co2, this degassing process typically lasts 2-3weeks.  After this time the coffee has lost it’s freshness.

Brewing

If great coffee beans reach the hands of a brewer, it means that the coffee has been grown on sufficient soil, with a good elevation, good climate season, it has been harvested carefully, processed well, shipped and stored in a non-detrimental way and roast profiled complimentary.  Yet, with all of the work that has gone into the coffee prior to the brewer, the coffee still has the opportunity to be great or much less than.  This is the burden of the brewing coffee.

Growing Regions

Caribbean/Central America:

Growing Countries: Mexico, Guatemala, Costa Rica, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Panama.

Notes:  In Central America you will find medium body, well-balanced coffees highlighting exciting fruit notes.  The region is known mostly for wet processed coffee, however some mills throughout the region are beginning to experiment and producing great semi-washed and natural coffee.  The elevations range from some of the highest and lowest possible, while still producing specialty coffee.

South America

Growing Countries:  Brasil, Colombia, Peru, Bolivia

Notes:  With lower altitudes flavors of chocolate, caramel and nuts are common to South American coffees while big-bodied coffees are no surprise.  Brazilian Coffee’s are most often dry-processed, however many farms within the country are beginning to practice multiple forms of processing.  In Colombia, Peru and Bolivia the wet process will be most common.

Africa

Growing Countries: Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, Rwanda, Burundi, Uganda.

Notes:  In the birthplace of coffee with the highest growing altitudes there is no wonder why continually some of the most sought after coffee is continually produced.  Ethiopia Sidamo and Harrar regions have gained popularity for their naturals that often taste like berries, while most of your other parts of Africa you will find fully washed coffees with bright clean acidity, luscious fruit, complex flavors, and wine like bodies.

Pacific

Growing Countries: Sumatra, Papua New Guinea, East Timor, Sulawesi.

Notes:  Syrupy, full-bodied coffees containing spice, nuts and herbal acidity are the norm flavors coming from Indonesian Coffee Countries.  Tropical Climates, high altitudes and very rich soil lends to these results.